A spectacular artichoke dish is the only reason to visit Evangelista, an old-timer done up as a smartly modern boîte. Most of the food we tried was lackluster, but the amazing house specialty, carciofi al mattone, makes this a must stop for aficionados of that thistle. Appearing as a bronze, crepelike disk, this riff on the artichoke alla giudea is made by frying the fully opened artichoke under a weight — traditionally a brick, or mattone — so that it emerges crackling crisp outside, yet meltingly tender within. That, plus a pasta like pappardelle with porcini and a glass of wine would make a satisfying lunch before a walk through the nearby Ghetto or along the Tiber.
Laureen -